【喫電影。展】 2012/11/12

繼去年底的《壽司之神》、今年六月的《米其林廚神:美味的傳承》,又一場美食記錄片展,共三部,分別是《美味絕饗 El Bulli:Cooking in Progress》、《冠軍廚房 Noma at Boiling Point》和《食物美學 Food Design》。

影展簡介:

                                                        http://www.j-ent.com.tw/movie_eat.htm

《美味絕饗 El Bulli:Cooking in Progress》和《冠軍廚房 Noma at Boiling Point》,分別介紹由「廚界瘋狂達利 Ferran Adrià」所領軍的西班牙 El Bulli 餐廳,和 2012《時代雜誌 Time》全球百大人物 René Redzepi 率領的丹麥 Noma 餐廳。兩家餐廳先後蟬聯「全球第一」近十年,在國際掀起分子料理和北歐料理風潮。這兩家風格迥異、獨樹一幟的傳奇餐廳,到底如何打造殿堂級美味?究竟哪一家的創意料理更富想像力?

【喫電影。展】不但由「外」— 從餐廳揭示廚神的創作境界,更從「內」— 剖析食品構成。由《沈默的食物 Our Daily Bread》製片班底打造的《食物美學 Food Design》,將帶領觀眾徜徉如萬花筒般精密繽紛的美食宇宙,進入魔法般的食品設計寰宇。

p.s. The Restaurant Magazine: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants                                                2002 — El Bulli named Best Restaurant in the World in the first Restaurant Magazine listing.                                                                                                                                                                                2006 — El Bulli regains top spot.                                                                                                      2007 — A second year at the top for El Bulli.                                                                                 2008 — El Bulli is the first to make it three years in a row as number 1.                                  2009 — El Bulli is the first to make it four years in a row as number 1.                                    2010 — Noma takes the top spot as number 1.                                                                             2011 — Noma takes the top spot as number 1 again, the second year in a row.                       2012 — Noma takes the top spot as number 1 again, the third year in a row.

《美味絕饗 El Bulli:Cooking in Progress》

                                                                                                           Internationally admired, talked about and criticized more than any other chef alive, Ferran Adrià has changed the way we eat and think about food, influencing chefs and dining experiences across the globe. Now, in this documentary, you’ll get a revealing look at the running of Adrià’s El Bulli over the course of one day, and gain insight into how and why it’s won the title of Best Restaurant in the World – a record four years in a row.

由西班牙國寶級烹飪大師 Ferran Adrià 所領軍的 El Bulli,以科學的方式且無法從外觀猜出味道和食材的料理聞名,是最前衛的殿堂級美味、全球第一的傳奇餐廳。極具個性的Ferran Adrià,堅持每年餐館僅開張半年 (04/02 ~09/30),並率領 40 名一流廚師於休館期間研發創作新料理,他們就像是一群研製新品的化學家、解剖動植物的生物學家,更是琢磨結構與色彩的前衛藝術家。沒有食譜的 El Bulli,半年內必須發明 200 種新菜式,為 8000 名顧客服務,然而訂位卻超過 200 萬份!                                                                            《美味絕饗 El Bulli:Cooking in Progress》片中實際記錄 Ferran Adrià 與工作團隊,如何不厭其煩、細膩地研究食物搭配與排列組合;再利用各種煎、烤、低溫烹調或油炸等方式,找出食材最鮮明的表現,為的就是想帶給人們「驚奇、感動與創意」。最後再把所有成果拍照存證建檔,密密麻麻的記錄報表與實驗紀錄,跳脫一般人對廚房的理解,也引人進入一個全新的美食領域,著著實實地掀起了一場「分子」與「傳統」料理之爭。                                 諷刺的是,天天客滿的 El Bulli,也因為 Ferran Adrià 所投入的研發成本過高,不堪負荷 (每年約虧損 70 萬美元),於 2011 年 7 月 30 日停止營業。

p.s. 分子廚藝 Molecular Gastronomy — 用最先進的技術,器材和添加物,來尋找、發展食材可能的各種質感、味道、形狀,或更炫人的感官刺激,是一種進展中的前衛廚技新界。這些高科技和革命性產品做出來的分子料理和傳統料理成為廚藝界兩種極端代表,各有擁護者。其實向來代表「分子廚藝」的 Ferran Adrià,是拒絕被貼上這個標籤的,他用的是「前衛料理 Avant-Garde Cuisine」— using avant-garde cooking techniques and equipment to transform flavors and presentations.

 About The El Bulli (http://www.elbulli.com/)                                                          Revolutionary Spanish eatery El Bulli is a Michelin three-star restaurant in Roses, Spain (two hours northeast of Barcelona); each night, it serves a tasting menu of 30+ courses, prepared by over 40 chefs, to a single seating of up to 50 guests, over two million requests were received for the 8,000 available seats. Head chef Ferran Adrià, who took over the restaurant in 1987 and instituted the tradition of yearly developmental sabbaticals, has become the leading inspiration for avant-garde cuisine worldwide, alternately referred to as a mad scientist or Salvador Dali of the kitchen.                                                                           El Bulli restaurant has now closed and has been converted into El Bulli foundation (culinary academy and creativity center), opening in 2014.

About Ferran Adrià                                                                                                                   Ferran Adrià is the dean of molecular gastronomy, the Catalonian chef who uses his kitchen laboratory for creations like liquid ravioli; caviar made from olive oil; an elliptical olive that is pure liquid; pine cone mousse; ravioli of cuttlefish wrapped around coconut milk; and Parmesan snow. They are astonishing and often baffling technical accomplishments that have garnered many disciples and set trends in restaurant kitchens worldwide.                      Two of his most famous and influential creations are “foam", in which he aerates sauces with a nitrous-oxide siphon that is ordinarily used to whip cream, and “warm gelatin" , in which he adds a seaweed powder called agar to stabilize beef gelatin without chilling it.          The son of a house painter, Ferran Adrià has often said that his career began accidentally, that he had no master plan. At a classic French restaurant in Barcelona, the chef, his father’s friend, gave him a job as a dishwasher and made him “memorize Escoffier", he said. He was 17; a year later, he started working in kitchens around Spain. He began at El Bulli, then a French restaurant, in 1983. Shortly after, the head chef quit, and Ferran Adrià persuaded the manager to give him the job.                                                                                    At 21, he began cooking in the classic French manner, but, curious as to why food was cooked the way it was cooked, he slowly started to create his own cuisine. Ferran Adrià’s idea was simply, he said, to “do new things with old concepts". He figured he would create something different with chicken curry, so he developed a now-famous dish, with a solid sauce and a liquid chicken.                                                                                                                  He soon began to attract attention. Then, in 1997, the Michelin Guide gave the restaurant three stars. In 1999, Joël Robuchon declared him the world’s greatest chef.

Ferran Adrià 的創意和對廚藝研究的無限熱情,我是看了《美味絕饗 El Bulli:Cooking in Progress》才真的了解而給予極大的敬意,他的許多作品確實叫人眼界大開,顛覆我們在喫、喝這件事情上。而眾多對 Ferran Adrià 的形容中我覺得最貼切的是:"Ferran Adrià departs from an abstract reflection. He asks himself questions, imagines a scene as an artist, an architect, or as a musician would. Then he answers that question with a plate, an edible response." ~ by Massimo Bottura, August 9, 2011

《冠軍廚房 Noma at Boiling Point》

                                                                                                            René Redzepi,美食世界的新霸主,被「時代雜誌 Time」票選為 2012 年最具影響力人物之一。他讓向來不受重視的北歐料理 (Nordic Cuisine) 躍上世界料理的舞台,成為蔓延全球的新浪潮。René Redzepi 強調飲食的在地性,重新凸顯食物、土地與季節的關聯,把「採集廚藝 Foraging」變得更時尚。他說:「Noma 想走的是一條相對簡單平實的路:在重視在地文化與環保精神、深耕傳統的同時,亦以大膽創新的態度與技術,將北歐料理推向世界。」「這些年來我們在 Noma 學到如何從不同角度看這個世界:長在草地上的樹,現在成了桌上佳餚。」

Noma 位於丹麥哥本哈根一處 18 世紀倉庫裡,那裡曾是哥本哈根最重要的漁港,邊用餐可以邊在窗前一飽港口、藍天和帆船交織而成的北歐生活。餐廳只有 40 個座位,卻多達 40位員工,而平均要等 3 個月以上才有機會在 Noma 用餐。在廚房裡的 René Redzepi,總用一種壓抑、急躁又憤怒的聲音 (中間不時夾雜髒話) 告訴廚師:「這些人等了 3 個月才有機會到 Noma,不完美的菜對客人是不公平的。」

“We would make crème brûlée with good Danish cream and wild Danish berries," he recalls. “But it was still crème brûlée." It wasn’t until a burly forager showed up at Noma’s back door with a handful of wild plants in 2004 that Redzepi’s sense of possibilities expanded. The chef began leading his cooks on foraging trips. And as seaweed and birch sap made their way onto Noma’s menu, Redzepi’s philosophy became more refined. “I wanted to learn how to integrate these ingredients so that we were cooking a part of our culture," he says. “I wanted you to taste the soil." 所以在 Noma,你吃到的不會是鵝肝、松露、白蘆筍,取而代之的是鮮苔、蒲公英、紙莎草,這就是「採集廚藝 Foraging」— 一種運用從大自然採集而來之天然食材而進行烹調的料理方式。René Redzepi 以實驗的眼光,從食物的基本特性下手,為傳統北歐菜餚注入新意。

從小沒下過廚的 René Redzepi,15 歲在學校廚藝比賽中獲勝而到餐飲學院上課,從此開啟了對烹飪的熱忱。他曾在哥本哈根的 Pierre Andre 餐廳受訓,而後於 1999 年至西班牙的 El Bulli 工作了一個餐季;回到哥本哈根後,落腳於當地知名餐廳 Kong Hans Kælder。2001 年在加州的 The French Laundry 待了四個月,最後又回到 Kong Hans Kælder。2003 年,René Redzepi 與 Claus Meyer 共同創立 Noma (Claus Meyer 現已離開 Noma),兩年後 Noma 即登上有「飲食界奧斯卡」之稱的英國美食權威雜誌「餐廳 Restaurant」全球 50家 最佳餐廳的第 33 名,之後年年攀升。2010 年,擠下以分子料理見長、4 度冠軍的西班牙 El Bulli 餐廳,首次奪冠,此後連續 3 年高踞榜首。(不過,Noma 目前還只是米其林二星餐廳。)

年輕的 René Redzepi 在料理界成就非凡,被時代雜誌列入 2012 年百大有影響力的人物,為他撰文的 Ferran Adrià 不吝讚譽曾在自己手下當過學徒的 René Redzepi,他說:「我們常談論著世上最好的廚師,但在現實生活中,烹飪一如其他活動,無法被評量、計算,沒什麼可以稱得上最好。但我們可以指出一件更重要的事:誰是不斷創新,最具影響力的廚師,而 René Redzepi 當之無愧。他不只靠料理,也靠自己的哲學,影響世上每一位廚師。」

除此之外,René Redzepi 更進一步擴大其影響力,集合廚師、科學家、農夫和政策制定者,成立了「MAD Foodcamp」(mad means food in Danish),為飲食產業的永續經營開出新路,致力為每一位客人打造最頂級的美食饗宴。(http://madfoodcamp.dk/uk/)

René Redzepi 是個有所堅持、與充滿願景的大師,可惜在《冠軍廚房 Noma at Boiling Point》片裡,導演只拍到一個在極大壓力下咆哮的廚師,他的理念完全看不到,甚至給人一種負面印象,這對 René Redzepi 是不公允的!

《食物美學 Food Design》

                                                                                                            When a bite produces a distinct crunch, they taste particularly good. Fish sticks, on the other hand, don’t make such great noises, but they can be arranged nicely in the pan. And why tea biscuits must have precisely 52 notches is still not clear. The TV documentary《食物美學 Food Design》shows how form, color, smell, consistency, the sounds made during eating, manufacturing technique, history and stories influence food design.

Should foodstuffs be considered designer products in the same way as Armani suits, Alessi coffee cups and Ferraris? Of course! 《食物美學 Food Design》 makes a case for a design discipline that has received little attention, inviting its audience to take part in a sensual journey through the wonderful world of food. Food designers work on things to eat, giving them a certain style and function. They not only make sure that food and drink fill our stomachs, but also that the eating process is practical and appeals to all the senses – so that we’re hungry for more.

由《沈默的食物 Our Daily Bread》製片班底所推出的最新力作《食物美學 Food Design》,邀請觀眾一窺食物美學的堂奧,進入魔法般的食品設計世界。從人的五感出發,探討現代的食品設計,是藉由眾多科學家、心理學家、設計師及行銷專家耗費無數心血,從產品的顏色、造型、氣味、功能及聲音等面向重新打造食物外觀,營造出令人垂涎欲滴的食物美學意象,最終目的就是要讓顧客願意花錢購買一個新產品,即使它的生命一般來說不會超過 2 年。

歐洲每年要推出上萬種新食品,食物的美味只是能否順利銷售的要素之一,造型、顏色、氣味、硬度都可能是影響關鍵。《食物美學 Food Design》片中舉例,心理學家和科學家發現,大自然中紅色的食物,大多都是外型飽滿口感甚佳,使人心情愉悅,因此紅色對人來說會引發香甜的聯想,因此利用紅色就可以促進購買慾及幸福感,所以一包 gummy bear 裡的紅色軟糖會是其他顏色的兩倍。人們對食物顏色有既定的印象,經實驗證明,黑色馬鈴薯或紅色蘆筍,即使味道完全不變,卻沒有人肯吃。更有趣的是暢銷的香草冰淇淋,採用「乳黃色」作為香草冰淇淋的象徵,讓人誤以為乳黃色具有更高的脂肪含量,實際上,香草籽是黑色的。脆脆的聲音代表新鮮,這就是你為什麼不自覺會喜歡酥脆的而自動排斥軟爛的洋芋片。想想看,大自然中腐敗的物質是不是都軟軟的?型隨機能而生,長方形魚排除了方便運輸外,也讓很多不吃魚的人在外觀上已無法辨認那是魚而願意接受。長型薯條就像是手指的延伸,相當適合拿來沾番茄醬,卻一點也不會沾惹到身體其他部位?bagel 原本就是設計作為長途旅行的食物,因此中間有洞就很適合拿繩子穿成一串。冰棒是一個讓人邊走邊吃的產品,理所當然要做成棍型。食物不僅因為好吃才成功,也因為它們敘述了一個故事、傳達了某些意義,它們絕沒有外表看來那麼簡單。

 

 

 

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