Austria: Rogner Bad Blumau 2012/06/06 – 2012/06/07

這趟朋友邀約之行,最初吸引我的其實是回程可以入住由百水先生(Friedensreich Hundertwasser)所設計的布魯茂百水溫泉飯店/百水山莊(Rogner Bad Blumau)。

p.s. 在奧地利地名的前面如果有Bad這個字,就代表這個所在是個溫泉水療城鎮,是國家掛保證的,可不能隨便加上的喔!

The hot spring at Blumau with water of special attributes was discovered in 1979 in 3000 m depth. Thankfully water was discovered, prompting the building of a hotel – not an oil well. In 1989, the successful developer Robert Rogner offered Friedensreich Hundertwasser the possibility to realize his ideas of the Rolling Hills. The inauguration of phase I – of the hotel, pools and spas – took place on May 10, 1997. (http://www.blumau.com/)

Friedensreich Stowasser(1928~2000)有建築老頑童之稱,是奧地利近代最有名的藝術家。出生於維也納,雖然只在維也納藝術學院待過三個月,但他源源不絕的創意就如涓涓流水,被譽為「奧地利的高第(Antoni Gaudí)」。                                                                                  猶如高第,百水先生也是一個崇尚自然的人,討厭對稱,所以平常連襪子都是穿二種不同的顏色(跟小時候的我一模一樣)。因此在他的設計中,沒有格式化與一成不變,房子總是不對稱且充滿高低起伏不規則的線條與色彩,連窗戶和柱子也是大小、顏色和形狀不一。         另外,他認為「水」是一切生命的泉源(甚至把自己的姓改成百水 — Hundertwasser),因此在他的畫中經常會出現大小不同的雨滴,同樣的,在建築中也一定會有跟水有關的噴泉或造景。西元1997年他完成了畢生最大的夢想,蓋一座讓人和自然能和諧共存的飯店:距離維也納東南方130公里,佔地40公頃的 Rogner Bad Blumau。

p.s. Hundertwasser considered New Zealand as his official home, and no matter where he went in the world, his watch was always set to New Zealand time.

Architecturally designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser in harmony with nature, Rogner Bad Blumau is laid out in four irregular quarters. The ring-shaped inner and extensive outer spa area constitutes the center. A wide variety of living, bathing and restaurant areas branch out from the center into the open landscape, offering countless opportunities for peaceful retreat.

Lobby

在傍晚抵達旅館的第一時間,其實是有些失望的;或許是光線,總覺得彩色的牆面和窗子,有點孩子氣!但是慢慢體驗它的整個空間之後,才漸漸感受到百水先生作品的獨特魅力;由其是在夜晚伴著星空的池邊,清晨蟲鳴鳥叫的林園中,Rogner Bad Blumau 真是個非常舒服的地方!

百水山莊的外觀像極了童話城堡,充滿著不規則及大膽的色塊,由寶藍、番紅及白色等不規則的瓷磚拼成的外牆,將山莊依顏色分成:

Stammhaus (Main house) — The main house has rooms of the category “Friedensreich" and “Wolkenreich" and houses the hotel’s reception desk and a major part of the administrative offices. The golden dome symbolizes values, wealth and happiness.

Ziegelhaus (Brick house) — The facade of the brick house was designed with roof-tiles from old Blumau farmhouses. There are double rooms of the category “Friedensreich" inside as well as two junior suites.

Kunsthaus (Art house) — Architecturally based on the Vienna Kunsthaus art gallery the art house includes double rooms of the category “Kunsthaus". (我們的下榻之處)

Steinhaus (Stone house) — This house has suites. The building owes its name to the use of stones for its facade.

造型像地下防空洞的公寓,宛如土撥鼠的地穴。

Waldhofhäuser (Forest yard houses) — The most striking aspect of these houses from an architectural point of view is that they are located underground, yet offer a lot of light coming from the inner courtyard. The bathrooms of all eight forest yard apartments are equipped with whirlpools with thermal and freshwater supply.

Augenschlitzhäuser (Slit-eye houses) — These houses with their 13 apartments do indeed have the shape of silted eyes. A range of comfortable accommodation units, divided into sleeping and living areas, in these houses. Same as in the forest yard houses, the bathrooms are equipped with whirlpools with thermal and freshwater supply.

山莊裡的每一棟房子,都有一個長長的走廊。

Uneven floors 的設計,引導我們走進夢幻世界,帶來強烈的視覺震撼力。

到處都可看到貼着各式各樣彩色石頭的金色樹木 — trees of life

每一間房間都有窗戶,可以看到外面的景色,低矮的設計,甚至可以直接跨出窗外。

dancing windows

colorful and overgrown roofs — 可以在上頭散步

Love trees — People join in holy matrimony and set a symbol of their love. More than 300 wedlock trees bedeck the meadows around Rogner Bad Blumau.

Rogner Bad Blumau 共有三座源泉,最特別的是一座火山湖泳池( Vulkania Spa Lake),使用的是47.2℃的鹼性碳酸氫鈉泉,每隔15分鐘,會有漩渦和水柱噴發,為優質的「美人湯」,有著十分柔細滑嫩的肌膚觸感。

蛋糕造型的屋子裡,是百水山莊的SPA中心。

SPA裡最受國際矚目的是寇柏醫師(Dr. Wolfgang Koelbl)獨創的「聲音療法」(Sound Therapy),運用敲擊不同的中西樂器所製造的樂音,將人導入一個無壓力的空間,目的在喚醒人們深層的意識,達到身心靈放鬆的境界。

除了SPA之外,尚有露天和室內的泳池共7個,最貼心的是室內通達室外溫泉池的設計。

                         看過如此有趣的 signs 嗎?

百水先生以他奇特帶有稚氣的特殊美學觀點及想像力,天馬行空地設計出這麼一座沒有直線的彩色世界。在這裡,找不到同樣的磁磚、同樣的窗戶形狀及同樣的屋 頂;它們共同的語言就是曲線,隨意扭曲又自然的線條,從屋頂延伸到窗子,從牆壁延伸到柱子,每條曲線都像個微笑,讓人打從心底綻放笑容,徹底顛覆人們對奧地利建築優雅的印象。

                                                                                  連早餐的蛋都在對你微笑哩!

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本篇發表於 旅途中, 步履間, 佇足。將永久鏈結加入書籤。

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